Custom Tailored Vests & Waistcoats
Most men’s suits come two-piece, since adding a third element increases their price. However, the vest has always been favored by those style-conscious men who appreciate the quiet resplendence of a third layer of wool. The businessman in his three-piece suit who removes his jacket in the office can rely on the dressiness of his waistcoat to retain some decorum while enjoying the freedom of shirt sleeved attire.
A vest also augments a suit’s versatility, as its exclusion from a three-piece ensemble creates a different look.
A classic suit vest has four welt pockets, with a six-buttoned designed to leave the bottom button undone.
Better-designed vests have their fronts slightly curved to conform to the single-breasted jacket’s rounded fronts.
A waistcoat’s back should be longer than its front.
This length is needed to cover the waistband should a man choose to bend forward.
The vest’s back lining usually matches the jacket’s sleeve lining.
Vests without adjustable rear belts or whose fronts and backs are of equal length are usually poorly designed and cheaply made.
Right down to its unbuttoned, cutaway bottom, the man’s tailored vest is a legacy of upper-class fashion. The properly fitted vest should be long enough for its fifth button from the top to cover the trouser waistband, yet not so long that its points extend below the hip.
A well-made vest has its own definite waistline, which is where the trouser waistband should hit.
Men who prefer low-rise trousers that rest on the hips should avoid vests.
Belts and vests should also choose other dance partners, since belts not only add further bulk to the already layered waistline, but tend to poke out from under the vest.
When the suit’s trousers are supported by braces, with their pleats spilling out from under the waistcoat, the single-breasted ensemble achieves a tailored swank afforded only by the addition of this third layer.
A waistcoat should not have a skintight fit.
It should be cut full enough to allow its wearer to sit comfortably with its back belt done up to keep it from riding up the trouser waistline.
The top of the vest should be high enough to peek out above the waist-buttoned coat.